Stepping out into the warm early afternoon humidity of the streets, we were surprised to see the apocalyptic mass of dilapidated buildings surrounding the hotel was transformed into a teeming world of commerce filled touristy geegaws and tee shirts. Food vendors of every shade stared impassively as we walked past. Of course we were as inconspicuous as possible. Big white guys are barely noticeable here. Especially Steve, who at 6’4” and well beyond his playing weight of 260 lbs, blended in about as well as a polar bear in a fish bowl.

Having our fill of the offerings near the hotel we squeezed into a very friendly fellow’s tuk tuk. Tuk tuks are tricycles powered by small motorcycle engines. They swim in the chaotic schools of metal fish that comprise the Bangkok streets. Motorcycles, scooters, cars, tuk tuks and pedestrians compete for every square inch of available street in a way that is just barely on the entertaining side of dangerous.
Before long, and by some mysterious process, the tuk tuk man deposited us at haberdashery run by very gracious Indian gentlemen. Our driver assured us that our mere visit would earn him coupons for his fuel.
Steve was soon being sized up for a tropical weight wool suit. I, on the other hand, feigned minimal interest in a tailor made shirt and none in a suit. After great reluctance and much haggling, I agreed to be measured for two cotton shirts. Steve emerged with a receipt for a $200 tailor made tropical wool suit. My shirts were going to cost about $32 each. We shall see…
 

Next our new friend took us to the riverfront. We each invested about $32 worth of Thai Bhat for a private tour of the river and canals that flow throughout the city. It was an awesome way to spend the afternoon.
Soon our boat lady drew us up to a gent in a punt full of merchandise. Steve wanted some statuary to decorate his desk, I settled for a straw cowboy hat emblazoned with “Thailand”. After accepting a beer and a soft beverage for our captain the haggling began in earnest. It ended with the once friendly merchant grumpily withdrawing and our boat lady grinning, giving us the thumbs up. I guess we won!
We continued on past banana plants bearing a tasty looking crop and gardens bursting with color and foliage of all forms. Houses of corrugated metal and grand compounds stood unembarrassed beside one another on the edge of the canals. It was impossible not to glimpse inside many of the homes and wonder what life would be like here. We both agreed it looked interesting.

At last we returned to the river and headed back. It was a fascinating afternoon. The phoenix of Bangkok was evident all round us.
 
Returning to the dock and shaking off our sea legs, our very happy tuk tuk man was eager to take us to places reserved for male entertainment. Politely declining, we finally convinced him to take us back to the hotel. Enjoying dinner by the pool, we chuckled over the fate that took over our lives for an amazing afternoon. Poolside, watching the early 6:30 pm sunset in the balmy evening all was perfect and incongruous all at once. Something like Bangkok, I imagine.

The stunning contrasts of old and new are typified by this photo of the traditional boats that ply the Chao Phraya river that flows through Bangkok and feeds the extensive canal system. Obviously the sparkling high rises in the background contrast with the old, but it doesn’t end there. Most of these boats are powered by turbo diesel engines, many complete with intercoolers. It isn’t just hardware that reflects a turn away from the hard scrabble past, either. Many young peoples’ smiles are fenced with orthodontia. It’s an obvious sign of affluence that is a joy to see. Adding million dollar smiles to these handsome, charming people is a world beating recipe.
Another aspect of Bangkok, and indeed the other parts of Thailand that we’ve seen so far is the general cleanliness of the streets. True, the air is often carries fragrances that make you wonder, but streets themselves are generally free of trash. The people clearly take pride in their home and care for it.
After a couple of days here, it’s impossible not to be captivated. The quiet, gentle manner of the Thais delightfully seasoned by their ready smiles is as warm an embrace as the tropical climate.